Tomales to Bolinas

Last month we ended up in Tomales, so today it is time to drive back south towards San Francisco . Maybe you stayed in Tomales the whole time and enjoyed the relaxed pace of life. Did you know that Marin County has the United States ' highest density of BMW cars? We won't let this rather odd fact ruin our day, though, as great Porsche roads await.

From Tomales, head south on Highway 1/Shoreline Highway and enjoy the approximately 8 miles of nice curves and smooth pavement to Marshall . The town of Marshall is pretty sleepy at any time of day; if you bought oysters on the way up, there is not much point in stopping again. Make a sharp left on the Marshall Petaluma Road , which climbs up the hill away from the ocean and into Verde Canyon . The trees disappear; the curves are numerous and sometimes off-camber, meandering among pastures and cows. The only caution is that the pavement is in nasty condition in a few places; a very low car might bottom out. Passing is possible only to the extent that the driver in front of you is courteous enough to let you go. Otherwise, enjoy the sights.  

A few miles up the road, a local rancher has set up two rusty tractors and an old Ford pickup in front of his house. Suspend disbelief for a moment, and you will go right back to the 1920s. It is truly the land that time forgot. You may want to stop for a Kodak moment.

 

12 miles after the turn off in Marshall , make a right on Hicks Valley Road to go around Hammock Hill and arrive in Hicks Valley . At the intersection of the Point Reyes Petaluma Road , turn right, going west. This is a short three mile stretch downhill towards Nicasio Reservoir, with nice views of the California rolling hills. At the reservoir, turn left on Nicasio Valley Road , where you might enjoy a few miles at higher pace. There are plenty of passing opportunities, too. You could also stop at Rancho Nicasio for brunch or for live music in the evenings.  

At the end of Nicasio Valley Road, turn left on Sir Francis Drake Boulevard. This short segment is unlikely to be very entertaining due to traffic, but soon you arrive in Fairfax, which is a great spot for coffee, snacks or lunch. You can enjoy a beer at the award winning Iron Springs Brewery or an ice cream at the Scoop, famous for being the first such Bay Area establishment to sell organic ice cream.  

After some rest in Fairfax, it is time to get back on the road for the highlight of this trip: Bolinas Road. You have to get off Sir Francis Drake Boulevard. First, so turn right at Claus Drive, then immediately left onto Broadway, then immediately right onto Bolinas Road. It is not as complicated as it sounds.  

One mile after the road leaves town, the twisty bits start. I suspect this is an old logging road, because it is very narrow in parts and was never modernized or straightened. Good! Watch for bicycles, since the area is a popular week-end destination for cyclists. It is unlikely you will run into pick-up trucks and other implements of commerce, though. At mile 8, you arrive at Alpine Lake which may remind you of Switzerland if you choose to ignore the flourishing oaks and sequoias. After a climb to 1600 feet, the road starts winding down towards the ocean. There are multiple spots with great views of the Bolinas Lagoon and the Pacific.  

When you reach Highway 1, just drive straight across and turn left on Olema-Bolinas Road at the T intersection. As Bolinas' reputation dictates, there is no Caltrans sign in sight; however, a hand-painted sign on the side of the road reads: "Bolinas: Socially Acknowledged Nature Loving Town." In a sign of modern times, town residents voted to declare Bolinas a "GPS-Free Zone" and are rumored to have installed satellite jammers on nearby hills. Try to stay away from the Bolinas Border Patrol, recently renamed the Bolinas Privacy Committee, but enjoy a drink at the Coast Café or pay a visit to Smiley's Schooner Saloon, the oldest continuously operating saloon in California . Sit outside and enjoy people watching; it is worth the trip!  

Scale: 1* to 5*

Twistiness

Pavement quality

Scenery

Highway 1

***

*****

****

Marshall Petaluma Road

****

**

*****

Point Reyes Petaluma Rd

**

****

***

Nicasio Valley Road

**

****

***

Sir Francis Drake Blvd

*

****

**

Bolinas Road

*****

**

*****

 

 

 

 

Claude