Healdsburg to Point Arena and back via Boonville

Winter and spring are great seasons to drive in Northern California . The sun is often out, the coastal fog is but a distant memory, and many other drivers are at home watching TV. Time to gas up and go explore another Porsche Road . This time we will travel to Mendocino County, in what, before 1841, used to be considered Russian territory. Our tour will leave from Healdsburg, a small town founded by failed gold miner Mr. Heald, who squatted on the land of the Fitch family and made it his home.  

Start from the Healdsburg Plaza and head north on Healdsburg Avenue . After 1 mile, turn left on Dry Creek Road , drive under US 101 and proceed straight. You are your way. (If you are coming on US 101, Dry Creek Road is at Exit 505). If you did not get lunch in town, the Dry Creek General Store, at mile 4.8, is a great place to buy some sustenance and sit down for a bite. Across the highway is Dry Creek Vineyards, which happens to be one of my favorite wineries. However, I suggest you stop on the way back, because the road ahead does not accommodate drinking, even a taste or two, well at all. At mile 12, you reach the Lake Sonoma Recreation Area, another great place for a picnic. At mile 14, there is a short access road to the scenic Lake Sonoma Overlook.

Past the dam, Dry Creek Road becomes Skaggs Springs Road , also known in the local motorcycling community as Skaggs Springs International Raceway. The good news is that the pavement is in excellent condition, the constant radius sweepers are well engineered, and the visibility is generally very good. The less good news is that Officer Friendly and his cousins stand ready to fill the county's depleted coffers by hunting the miscreants who dare exceed the Caltrans-imposed 30 mph limit. Yet another reason why winter drives are better. The road starts at a 350 foot elevation at the dam, climbs to 2000 feet past the lake, and then drops again to 800 feet when it crosses Warm Springs Creek at mile 24. This is all pure driving goodness.  

At mile 25, the road narrows, and the quality of the pavement decreases measurably. Over the next 25 miles or so, there are many short one-lane sections, and caution is advised. This is mostly a third gear road, with the occasional second gear switchback. Yet the scenery is well worth the trek. The forest alternates between redwoods, pines and California oaks. There are nice views of Wolf Creek . Civilization is quite far away; just imagine riding a horse through this country 200 years ago, as early explorers did. At mile 42, it is possible to continue on to Highway 1, but the best option is to turn right onto Annapolis Road over the bridge that crosses the Wheatfield Fork. Annapolis has its own post office and zip code (95412), but don’t blink, or you might miss downtown.

Annapolis road reaches Sea Ranch, the controversial development that led to the creation of the California Coastal Commission, at mile 55, and Highway 1 half a mile later. Turn right on Highway 1, heading north. At mile 63, you reach the town of Gualala, where a pit stop might be in order. The Gualala Hotel, built in 1903, offers cheap rooms. A more romantic spot is across the highway at the Breakers Inn; the rooms overlook the Pacific Ocean and the mouth of the Gualala River .  

North of Gualala, Highway 1 is known as the Shoreline Highway , as it follows the ocean shore very closely. The views are simply beautiful when the visibility is good. There is no obstacle between here and Japan . At mile 73, a quick turn left on Iverson Point Road provides a great photo-op of the coast. At mile 80, there is a turn-off towards the Point Arena Lighthouse, an interesting spot to stretch your legs.  The lighthouse is the only one on the West Coast where visitors can climb to the top. The museum is pretty interesting, too. The lighthouse was closed for restoration in 2008; it should be reopened by the time you read this. Check the website. On your way back to Highway 1, you may want to stop at the Rollerville Café, which the sign advertises as the "first café since Hawaii ."  

2.5 miles north of the café, make a right on to Mountain View Road , which will take you back inland. The road is nice at the start, traveling among farms and climbing into the coastal forest. The trees are so dense that it quickly becomes impossible to catch even a glimpse of the ocean. What follows are 25 miles of tight curves on a pretty lonesome, rough road with some one-lane sections. It is very likely you will pass no one, and cross no one until the 16% downhill grade above Boonville. At mile 111, make a right on Highway 128. Boonville, population 1370, is best known for its quaint local dialect – "Boontling". The local bookstore has phrasebooks. Its annual Beer Festival, scheduled this year for May 2, is a fundraiser for local charities. Boonville is also located in the cool Anderson Valley , home of some of California 's best white wines and Pinot Noirs.  

Highway 128 to Cloverdale consists of a long series of sweepers, steep grades and tight corners. The pavement varies between good and excellent as the road goes past wineries and Christmas tree farms. This is a nice ride after the sometimes tricky bits on Mountain View Road . At mile 125, you drive through Yorkville, a one cow town that was once covered with apple orchards and is now home to several excellent wineries. The lone railroad car is a reminder that before Highway 128 was built, this valley was connected to the world by stagecoach and a narrow gauge railroad.  

In Cloverdale, it is back to Highway 101. Healdsburg is 18 miles south of the freeway entrance. In total, this trip covers 150 miles. You ought to budget a minimum of 4 hours, more depending on the number of photos you take, wineries you visit, and snacks you eat. The cheapest gas is in Healdsburg.