King City to Carmel

via Fort Hunter Liggett

Gov't Mule is playing King's Highway on the radio, which seems entirely appropriate as El Camino Real approaches King City, named after Mr. Charles King, not after the King of Spain as one might have guessed. You can gas up and maybe get a fine Mexican lunch right off 101, but otherwise, downtown is not known for its photo opportunities.

Our goal today is a delightful and out-of-the-way road that will take us from 101 all the way to Cabrillo Highway / Highway 1 on the edge of the Pacific Ocean, then north to Carmel and the Monterey Peninsula . Half a mile north of town, on the west bank of the Salinas River , turn off onto Jolon Road , or County Route G14.

The San Bernabe Vineyard, nestled between the river and the foothills, covers thousands of acres with 21 varieties of grapes, and is testament to the size of the wine business. After the winery, Jolon Road starts rising gently into the Santa Lucia Mountains , passing through numerous cattle ranches and near the occasional Victorian farm house.  Green stands of cottonwoods and willows line the streams coming down the hillsides. At mile 9.5, a welcome passing lane allows you to overtake, if there is any traffic. At mile 12, you enter Fort Hunter Ligget, a US Army training facility. Past the first range, the road ought to be renamed "Avenue of the Oaks", as majestic old growth trees line both sides of the valley. The town of Jolon burned down in 1929, and there is nothing noteworthy left to see. It has its own zipcode, though.

At mile 18, turn right onto Mission Road , and, a quarter mile later, stop at the barricade and be prepared to show your driver's license, registration and proof of insurance. The maximum speed limit on the base is 55 mph (less where posted), and they have machine guns and hand-held missiles . . . so no fooling! Mission Road soon goes by row upon row of parked Humvees, flat bed trucks and assorted earth moving equipment, until you see The Hacienda, up the hill on the right. Fort Hunter Liggett's lands were once part of the William Randolph Hearst properties. Hearst built the Hacienda to house his employees and guests. The Army operates it as a public hotel. Half a mile further down the road, you reach Mission San Antonio.  

The setting for the mission is straight out of a spaghetti western movie: sun-drenched flat grounds, deep blue sky, hills in the background, earth tone bricks, red tiles, rattlesnakes, olive trees, a single visitor hiding furtively behind the columns. If you listen attentively, you might hear the music of Ennio Morricone playing in your head.  

Because the location is so remote, the mission has not been updated and "yuppiefied" like so many others, and it may well be the best example of what all the missions looked like two centuries ago. San Antonio was built in 1771, and the first catholic wedding in Alta California was celebrated there in May 1773. The gardens and the small museum are worth a quiet stroll.

After visiting the mission, you have to backtrack about 2 miles and turn right onto Nacimiento-Fergusson Road towards the ocean. Signage is fairly minimal, but it should indicate Highway 1 and Lucia. You will soon see a green all-metal bridge over the San Antonio River. Turn left and cross the bridge.  

The first set of curves will take you over a short range into Stony Valley . The old tank parked on the right side is a clear indicator you are still on the base. The road crosses Stony Creek, and on the left side, you get a short glimpse of a pond and its wetlands.  

At mile 34, a road sign promises 2 miles of twisties. The pavement quality is good, but the road engineering leaves much to be desired. Watch for off-camber turns, blind corners and blind dips. At mile 36, go through the next barricade to leave the Fort and enter Los Padres National Forest. (Did you know that the rangers manage land for 20 horses under the Wild Horse and Burro Act of 1971? Neither did I. And when did Congress find time in their busy schedule to pass the Burro Act?) The sign says 14 miles to Highway 1.  

After the barricade, the 2-lane road follows the Nacimiento River valley, and traffic is sparse at best. At mile 41, you reach the Nacimiento campground, where you can pitch your tent and have a picnic. After crossing the river, at mile 42, the road starts climbing along the edge of the Santa Lucia Mountains . The pavement is quite a bit bumpier than inside the fort, but there are no potholes or sudden dips. Watch for loose rocks, though. The driving is pleasant but not fast; 25-30 mph is about top speed. Enjoy the scenery. The oak trees soon make room for madrones as the ocean air reaches into the canyons.  

At mile 43.5, there is a nice overlook where you can see deep into the canyon and understand why fighting fires in this area is impossible. Oh, and there is no phone service, of course.  

You reach the pass 3400 feet above sea level at mile 45, at the intersection with the Central Coast Ridge Road . If you are driving a Cayenne , you may consider turning right to go up to Cone Peak or turning left onto Plaskett Ridge Road towards Highway 1. I did not test the off-road capabilities of the GT3, so I cannot give you more information on these side excursions. After reaching the top, the downhill drive is quite steep and twisty. There is no Armco anywhere in sight, so take it easy.  

Around mile 46.5, you get your first good view of the ocean, and at mile 47 there is nice overlook with room to pull over. The sight of the marine layer promises cool air down below, and there are many more curves coming. As you progress downhill, the trees disappear and are replaced by grasses and a few century plants. At mile 51 or thereabouts, expect to be in the clouds or to see kelp beds in the water, depending on the weather on the day of your trip. Then at mile 52, you reach Cabrillo Highway. Make a left towards San Simeon if you are headed south, or turn right towards Big Sur and Carmel .  

Highway 1 hardly needs any introduction and description. The pavement all the way to Carmel is generally in good shape, but there are several spots that have experienced landslides or some sort of upheaval, and it gets extremely bumpy for a few hundred feet at a time. Given the current state of California 's finances, I would not expect improvements in the near future. The Lucia Lodge at mile 56 might be worth a stop for a cup of coffee or a bite. If your credit card needs a workout, you may want to consider the Ventana Inn for a spa and fine dining. The Big Sur Roadhouse offers a more casual alternative. Of course, once you are in Carmel , the dining opportunities expand considerably. On the way, I recommend the Point Lobos State Reserve for a good look at the coast, its flora and fauna. The entrance is on the left at mile 105.  

One quick word about the climate. I made this trip during a June heat wave; it was 90 in San Jose around noon, 110 at Mission San Antonio, and 59 in Big Sur. You will need to carry some water with you for the first part of the trip, and then bring a jacket along for the second half.

Claude